out and about on the vineyard
After the final thrust of the glacier shoved and tumbled to the South Western most point of the island, stopping at the cliffs of Aquinnah, formerly Gay Head, it receded from those heights leaving the rolling terrain of Chilmark and up-island and then flattening to the fertile farmlands of West Tisbury. These hills that some remark resemble the moors of England are not to be found on our sister island Nantucket, nor Cape Cod. In this way geologically the Vineyard is unique.
Of course, being an island, we are encircled by the best beaches. Those sandy beaches facing the open ocean to the south, South Beach, Lucy Vincent Beach, Squibnocket and Philbin invite surfers and surf-casters and strong swimmers to enjoy their bold waters. The shores facing the Northwest- Lobsterville, Menemsha, Lambert’s Cove, Tashmoo and to the Northeast- the Inkwell, State beach, Bend -in-the Road, are more sheltered and therefore also more placid and welcoming for easy swimming and beach combing.
Fresh, salt water and brackish ponds provide habitat for a large diversity of wildlife from waterfowl, to otters, deer, fish and shellfish. Locals and visitors and privileged to enjoy the bounty of oysters, clams and mussels that thrive in these waters.
All one needs to do is go to the local town hall and sign up for a shellfish permit, and then be certain to follow location and size regulations. There is hardly a day more gratifying than one spent clamming and then returning home to fix up some homemade quahog chowder or littleneck clams casino or linguine with clam sauce.
For children too, these inland ponds; like Seth’s pond in West Tisbury and the Lagoon between Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs provide calm waters to learn to swim and sail, before heading to the surf off the beach.
In addition to it’s physical diversity the island also has a diverse population. Many descendants of the first Native American inhabitants, the Wampanoag tribe still live on the island, many calling Aquinnah home. Their rich cultural heritage can be shared by visiting their Cultural Center off State Road or by perusing the arts and craft shops that perch at the edge of the Gay Head Cliffs. Once there, don’t miss the opportunity to eat a boiled lobster dinner on the terrace of the Aquinnah restaurant as you watch the sunset over the Elizabeth Islands.
The families of the first settlers: the Mayhews, Coffins, Whitings, Nortons, Luce are all still thriving many generations later and a visit to the Martha’s Vineyard Museum is a great way to get a glimpse in to the way life used to be on the vineyard.
A wave of immigrants from the Azores in the last century brought a flavor of the Old World with it’s Portuguese speaking citizens. Today you can sample the signature dish of kale soup spiced with linguica in many of the local restaurants, and help celebrate the Portuguese Holy Ghost Feast in Oak Bluffs in the third Saturday in July.
The Methodist Campgrounds of Oak Bluffs are remarkable today for the colony of tents that over time became permanent structures emblazoned with vibrant colors, intricately carved cornices, gingerbread trim and fanciful names.
In mid August throngs of visitors join a community sing-along. Then the lights go out and illumination night begins. Thousands of colorful paper lanterns light the night while islanders and visitors amble through the magically lit fairy tale campgrounds.
Activities on the island are only as limited as one’s imagination and energy. From outdoor sports: fishing, swimming, kayaking, wind-surfing, canoeing, hiking, bicycling, to indoors activities: shopping, dining, perusing the libraries and museums, riding the flying horses, the country’s oldest carousel and working out at our new YMCA or one of the other fitness centers to movie going there is something for everyone, something for all ages to enjoy. ( Beat that Charles Dickens!)
And the reasons people come to the island are as diverse as our attractions. Some come for the nature, some for the water sports, others for the calm retreat, and others to explore the history of antique villages and still others to visit friends or family…
Whatever your reason to come to the island for the first time, or following a long tradition of visiting. Odds are you will be thinking of taking that ferry again soon, across the vineyard sound back to Martha’s Vineyard. Whether to find you dream home here, or a summer vacation rental or even just to stay in a B & B for that dreamy romantic weekend. But watch out, you may find it hard to leave! That’s why they call them “wash-ashores!”

